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L’Anima - more Sheraton than Sawdays when it comes to fine dining

I went to L’Anima for dinner about a month or so ago and, having fallen somewhat behind with my blog admin, have been meaning to write about the experience ever since, only to discover I’ve been pipped to the post by @CriticalCouple who have written a rather good review of it on their blog already.
I actually enjoyed the food rather more than they did (photos below)- perhaps the kitchen was just on slightly more consistent form the night I went, or perhaps I’m just not as discerning. But I agree with most of their analysis; this is a restaurant pitched squarely at the corporate dining expenses card set.
I suppose L’Anima is the restaurant equivalent of an upmarket business hotel rather than a boutique guest house. The reception and bar area even looks like a hotel lobby and there are even in-house conference facilities (by which I mean two rather stylish private dining rooms). I didn’t ask if there was a business centre (which, as far as I can work out is usually a room devoted entirely to a fax/copier machine) but I feel confident it would have been provided, had I asked.
And there’s absolutely a time and a place for upmarket business hotels and their restaurant equivalents. At L’Anima everything is spic, span and polished, from the Italian marble floor tiles to the impeccable service. You feel a bit special just being inside the polished glass box of a dining room, in the same way a good hotel makes you feel slightly like a celebrity as you check in. And I personally thought the food was good and wouldn’t seem at all out of place in a 5 star hotel restaurant.
But (and here’s the rub) it is undeniably expensive and overall, slightly sterile and somewhat lacking in character or intimacy. So if your default for a good hotel is The Sheraton then you won’t be disappointed. But if it’s something more like Sawdays then I suggest you roll again.
Posted on August 8, 2011 with 2 notes ()
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halfboard posted this
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